Alaska: Again, again, and again!

By Judy Salwen

This was my third time in Alaska. The previous trip was four years ago; and, it wouldn't surprise me if there was a fourth or fifth visit in the future. The 49th state has so much to offer: friendly, independent people, including Jewish long-time and recent residents; incredibly majestic scenery; Native Americans with a distinct, historic culture; and cruise ships galore, seeking to shepherd people to Alaska. And so, along with approximately 699 other passengers, I sailed on a memorable seven day cruise, in July 2008, on Regent Seven Seas Mariner, which departed from Vancouver, British Columbia, Canada.

Arriving a day early in Vancouver, to make certain that neither weather, nor airline problems interfered with my arrival at the ship. I spent overnight at the Four Seasons Vancouver, a hotel in the heart of downtown, at 791 West Georgia Street.

Minutes from world-renown Stanley Park, from galleries, theaters, beaches and west coast mountains, this luxurious, vibrant hotel is connected at the lobby level to Pacific Centre, a major mall, with 140 shops and services. I had only to walk through the hotel lobby to the mall's drugstore to purchase a tube of toothpaste. Absolute convenience! My guest room was large and comfortable, very much appreciated after the long flight from New York City. It communicated, "We'll take good care of your rest tonight!" And, that it did. In addition, there was a sitting area in the room, where friends visiting from Fort Lauderdale and I enjoyed a lively, comfortable visit and chat, instead of having to meet in a busy public area.

A fully equipped health club, staffed by a dedicated fitness concierge, and indoor and outdoor pools, whirlpool and sauna, plus state-of-the-art cardio-vascular equipment, and a healthy pool menu, reinforced the concept that Four Seasons cared about its guests. Internet access was available in the business center and in the room. Everything that contributed to the guests comfort or convenience was available.

The icing on the cake was Four Seasons' Yew Restaurant and Bar where I dined. Featuring an innovative culinary menu of west coast cuisine, it took me just moments to decide upon a delicious fish among the other entrees, salads, soups, and breads calling out to me. For dessert, I guiltily decided upon chocolate fondue, well worth the calories!

The ambience of Yew Restaurant made dining even more pleasing. With an interactive, open kitchen, I could see the chefs preparing the food. Diners could enjoy cocktails in front of a floor–to-ceiling sandstone fireplace. A communal table for 10 guests meant no one had to dine alone. Breakfast, lunch and dinner are available at Yew, which opened in December 2007 and includes a kosher kitchen for weddings, bar and bat mitzvahs and other occasions: www.fourseasons.com/vancouver.

Boarding Mariner, I was prepared for fine personal service, stateroom and dining accommodations of top caliber, destination and land excursions, unique and enjoyable, all of which the ship was known for. It was apparent from the onset that this would be the case. Check-in was swift and efficient and a glass of champagne was offered to each passenger. Escorted to my cabin by a crew member, my suitcase awaited me, ready for unpacking. Instructions about the important emergency safety drill scheduled soon after boarding were clear. Later in the afternoon, a sail-away cocktail party on the pool deck for people to meet and greet was announced. In the early evening, if like me, the passenger was traveling solo, there was a cocktail party for solos, followed by an optional dinner.

As we arrived in various Alaskan ports, Mariner passengers purchased optional shore excursions offered by the ship such as dog sledding, fly fishing, walking, helicopter glacier discovery, bear watching and whale watching. Some passengers made their own local side-trip arrangements, as did I, having contacted the Tourist and Convention Bureaus before leaving New York. My interest was in meeting Alaskans, acquainting myself with the Jewish population, and exploring the sites, places of interest and culture.

In Juneau, Alaska’s capital, I visited Temple Sukkat Shalom, which the Juneau Jewish community acquired four years ago, converting the building from a day care center to a synagogue, a task which less than one hundred people made happen. Prior to that, the Jewish community spent decades meeting in each others' homes and local facilities. Greeting me and Sharon Gaiptman, an active member of the synagogue, was the president and lay person, Mandy Schramm, who conducts the Friday night services because there is no rabbi in Juneau. Gaiptman (907-321-0751) can arrange for members and outsiders to use the synagogue as a destination for weddings and bar or bat mitzvahs.

Comprising a congregation of approximately 35 families, there are 24 students enrolled in its Hebrew School, kindergarten through 2. There is a playground area in the back of the building, too. Bar and bat mitzvah preparation is programmed, as is Torah study, book clubs and gardening activity. One Torah, rescued from Germany in 1930, and another from Hungary are treasures of the congregation. At the conclusion of our synagogue visit, Sharon Gaiptman, shared her father Irving's observation, "You can wear your religion in your heart or on your sleeve. God doesn't have office hours." 

Following the synagogue visit, I was shown highlights of Juneau by Elizabeth Arnett of the Convention & Visitors Bureau who drove me to the doorstep of The Mendenhall Glacier, which has been receding 30 to 60 feet yearly, and stands 10 feet above and 90 feet below the water level. She provided information about Juneau as well, such as: Juneau was founded in 1889 during Alaska's Gold Rush period; population is 30,000 with 60 to 70 percent living in the Mendenhall Valley; two new docks grace the expanding city; and, wilderness activities are very popular with both residents and tourists.

We stopped at the Macaulay Salmon Hatchery to observe Pacific salmon, one of Alaska's important wildlife species, fighting their way up a 450-foot fish ladder, and viewing the raceways, where, during spawning season, thousands of salmon congregate. Finally, an early evening whale watching tour by Dolphin Jet Boat Tours added another dimension to Juneau. Not only did I see whales romping but a group of sea lions squatting on a buoy. Both left an indelible impression.

Sitka, another port stop, provided the opportunity to meet with a 29-year-old friend, Allison Sayer, from New York City who worked for the state from 1999 to 2003 and who returned to Sitka in 2004. Her mother and I belong to the same synagogue in New York. We spoke about her inactive Jewish status in Sitka due to the lack of an organized Jewish community; and, that fortunately, her upbringing provided the connection to Jewish literature, history and the Torah. She finds the Alaskan lifestyle so nourishing, and added, that to many Alaskans, the outdoors is something spiritual.

When we finished our coffee, I was joined by Rachel, a tour guide from Sitka Tribal Tours who took me on a tour of the town, enjoying a bit of background in which Rachel remarked that Native American Tlingit storytellers can tell a totem story for five or six nonstop hours. We drove to the world-class Sheldon Jackson Museum, a national historic site, housing priceless Native American items collected by Dr. Jackson in the late 19th century during his travels to remote regions of Alaska. Beautifully displayed and showcased were masks, blankets, and kayaks, and the Museum's gift shop sells handicrafts created by native Alaskan artists.

The final Sitka stop was to see Native American dancers perform tribal dances; and while each dancer was impressive, a little boy, maybe five or six years old, shone with his agility and sense of rhythm.

Though Mariner's last stop was the town of Seward, it was Anchorage, my fly-home city, that provided the opportunity to meet the heads of two young Jewish families, the long-time resident David and his former New York City wife, Shani Green, and, the two newer kids on the block, Yael and Bob Kaufman. In Anchorage, I was able to enjoy Resolution Park monument to the explorer Captain Cook, Earthquake Park, where a massive earthquake in 1964 tore Anchorage apart, and the Oscar Anderson House Museum, and the city's first permanent frame house, built in 1915.

The Greens, whose grandfather had developed a flourishing fur business since 1922, met in New York City when David visited to find a Jewish bride. The Greens have expanded the business and are also passionately engaged in building a Jewish Historic Museum in Anchorage. The Kaufmans, transplants from New York City and Michigan, are in the video and publishing business. Both couples are involved in Chabad because it is a warm and nurturing environment with a feeling of community. Chabad provides space for preschool and quality education for their children, as well as opportunities for Jews to be a community in Anchorage.

Both couples enjoy the wide-open spaces, Alaskan adventure, the feeling that everyone matters in Anchorage (populations 270,000), and the Jewish and Native American culture.

Enjoyment included all of these things plus Alaska's Gold Rush history; activities on shore; meeting Alaskans and fellow Mariner cruisers; the awe-inspiring glaciers such as Mendenhall, Tracy Arm and Hubbard, and the bounties of the ship such as delicious, and healthy, meals served in on-board top-notch restaurants; comfortable attractive staterooms; programs on sea days such as talks by the superb cultural anthropologist/storyteller, Terry Breen; evening shows of Broadway musicals and a dance program by talented performers; trivia and bingo; art talks; group-led Shabbat services on Friday night, and so much more, that passengers signed up for future discounted cruises, on Regent Seven Seas, before the cruise ended.
Every time I visit Alaska I see growth and newness. Can't wait to find out what it is on my next visit to our 49th state.

Updated 8/6/08